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Glossary of Leather and Handbag Terms

Handbag Terms:
 
 
Antique: Leather with a smooth finish because the grain has been crushed and undergone shrinkage.
 
Applique: A cutout decoration made of beadwork, embroidery, hand painted fabric or leather, etc., and is fastened to the exterior of a handbag.
 
Athletic Bag:  A cloth duffel-style bag used for carrying athletic gear. Often features an adjustable shoulder strap.
 
Authentic: An authentic handbag or fashion accessory is the original. It is designed by and manufactured by (or with contractual consent) of the designer, and the name is specified on the name tag.
 
Backpack:  A bag that is supported by the shoulders with double handles and lies across the back. Backpacks are supported on either one or both shoulders.
 
Barrel: A handbag with a long cylinder shape that resembles a barrel.
 
Belt Bag: A purse that hangs around your waist, like a belt. The bag of a belt bag may or may not be detachable.
 
Box Handbag: A box-shaped handbag, typically of a hard material such as plastic or wood. Features a handle at the top and latching hardware.
 
Bracelet Handle:  A handle made in the shape of a closed circle, like the circular shape of a bracelet.
 
Bucket Bag: A type of soft-sided handbag shaped like a bucket with a round bottom, an open top, and is longer in height than width. Typically features a single shoulder strap.
 
Canteen Bag: A round, stiff bag that resembles a water flask. Canteen bags typically have a shoulder strap.
 
Canvas:  A durable, somewhat water resistant material that is popular in backpacks and school bags.
 
Carpet Bag:  A large satchel-like bag, typically used for carry-on luggage and made out of carpet fabric.
 
Clasp: A fastening device used to hold two parts together. Many handbags have shoulder straps that are removable, with a clasp at each end to attach and detach the strap, to and from the bag.
 
Closure:  A device such as a latch or snap, or drawstring used to keep a compartment or pocket of a handbag closed.
 
Clutch: A bag with no handles that must be carried clasped in one hand or under the arm.
 
Convertible Bag:  A bag with a handle that can be tucked or folded inside, in order to turn it into a clutch.
 
Computer Bag: A purse, usually a tote or shoulder bag, especially designed to carry a laptop and its accessories.
 
Cosmetic Case:  Bags of varying sizes and shapes with a zipped closure, usually lined with a water resistant material. Designed to hold cosmetics.
 
Demi-Bag: A small handbag with a carrying handle at the top, which is designed to be carried in the hand or on the shoulder.
 
Designer: A person who designs clothing and accessories. Often the designer is also the manufacturer of the clothing and/or fashion accessories associated with the name of the designer.
 
Diaper Bag: A convenient bag or tote used to carry baby changing supplies, etc.
 
Drawstring Handle: A soft bag with a gathered drawstring closure. The drawstring, once synched, may form into purse straps or have a separate strap.
 
Duffel Bag:  Typically an unstructured, spacious bag that is long, horizontal and cylinder in shape with two short handles, and a top zipper. Used to carry athletic equipment, or as casual luggage. Originally designed for military use.
 
East/West: Describes a bag that is longer than it is tall.
 
Embossed Leather:  A specific design or random pattern imprinted onto leather and often simulates exotic skin, such as crocodile or snake.
 
Envelope Handbag:  A slim, envelope shaped handbag. May be a strapless clutch or may have a handle.
 
Evening Bag: Describes a bag, designed to be carried during the evening to formal dress events.
 
Fanny Pack:  A belt bag.
 
Finish:  A special process that includes the application of polish to create a high-gloss finish, or a contrasting polish to create a rub-off finish like “antiquing”. A surface texture produced by such treatment or coating.
 
Flap Bag: A handbag that has a fold-over flap as its main feature.
 
Frame: Describes a handbag with strong, inflexible structure. Frame handbags were popular during the 1950’s.
 
Glazed Leather:  Leather with a polished finish, whereas a matte finish is dull.
 
Grosgrain:  A closely woven silk or rayon fabric with continuous narrow horizontal ribs, or a ribbon made of this fabric.
 
Gusset: The triangular end piece of a handbag which gives depth and roominess to the shape.
 
Handtag: A tag made of metal, leather, or fabric printed or embossed with the designer’s name and logo, and attached to the exterior of the handbag with a small chain, string or leather cord.
 
Hardware:  Any of the parts of a handbag (or piece of luggage) that are made of metal, such as; buckles, clasps, latches, hinges, zippers, rivets, grommets, etc.
 
Hobo: A roomy, crescent-shaped, unstructured, rounded handbag that typically features a single top zipper and shoulder strap. They were popularized during the 1960’s.
 
Imitation Leather: Any synthetic material made to look like leather (also referred to as “faux leather”).
 
Jacquard:  A fabric with a woven design, versus a design printed on the fabric.
 
Kelly Bag:  A handbag style associated with the actress Grace Kelly and made popular by her. The bag has hard sides, a triangular profile, and a latch top and one carrying handle.
 
Knock Off:  A generic term for handbags and other merchandise that duplicates the style of a famous designer brand name. Some knockoffs are legitimately licensed reproductions while others are simply forgeries passed off as the original.
 
Latch: A closure that has a bar which  fits into a notch or slot.
 
Leatherette: A synthetic material with a look very much like genuine leather. It is durable and inexpensive, making it a very popular material for less expensive handbags.
 
Lining: The inside material of the purse. May be composed of leather, fabric, or synthetic material.
 
Messenger Bag:  A large unisex handbag with a long shoulder strap. It is worn across the shoulders and has a large flap at the front. Based on the bag once used by couriers and the post office to carry documents and the like.
 
Minaudiere:  An evening clutch purse with a hard case, usually covered in Swarovski crystals. 
 
Name Plate:  A metal plate with the designer name and/or logo, that is fastened to the interior or exterior of the handbag. Sometimes name plates can also be a piece of leather embossed with the designer name and/or logo, and sewn onto the exterior of the handbag.
 
Napa:  A supple version of sheepskin (usually under two years old at time of use).
 
North/South: Describes a bag that is taller than it is wide.
 
Nubuck: Lightweight, supple leather often buffed to a suede-like appearance.
 
Organizer: A pocketbook with several types of compartments arranged to carry appointment books, notes, etc., along with personal items.
 
Patent Leather: Well-varnished leather with a high gloss finish. Is sometimes used to describe very shiny faux leather but properly applies to genuine leather only.
 
Pebbled Grain: Embossed-leather grains finish resembling a pebble surface.
 
Pocket: A small section of the interior of a handbag located on the side of a larger compartment.
 
Pouch Handbag: A general term referring to a handbag with a framed closure, often available in a variety of sizes with a variety of straps. A “pouch” can be a gathered or straight bag or evening bag.
 
Pull Tie: A thin strip of fabric, leather, cord, or string that is woven through eyelets and when pulled it gathers together the top of a handbag or compartment in order to close it. Also called “drawstring”.
 
Satchel Handbag: A bag with a wide, flat bottom, zippered or clasped top, two handles or straps. The satchel was inspired by the shape and utility of luggage and comes in a wide variety of sizes. An example: the doctor’s bag.
 
School Bag:  A roomy bag with a snap, clasp or buckle top flap and one wide shoulder strap: often a thick variation of the envelope bag. 
 
Serial Number: A unique number that is stamped or printed on a tag usually located on the interior of a handbag or wallet. This number, assigned by the handbag designer can prove authenticity, and can also indicate the design line of the handbag, the date it was made, and even the location of the boutique (or authorized dealer) where it was purchased.
 
Shopper:  A bag designed as a carryall for shopping. “Shoppers” are usually rectangular.
 
Shoulder Bag:  Any handbag that has a long strap, and is intended to be worn over the shoulder. Shoulder bags are popular when moving in crowded public places as the strap (if it is long enough) can be worn across the body to thwart purse-snatchers.
 
Shoulder Guard: A piece attached to a shoulder strap that pads or distributes the weight of the bag and its contents.
 
Sling Bag: A soft-sided shoulder bag that has one end of the shoulder strap attached to the top of the bag, and the other end attached to the bottom of the bag.
 
Snap:  A closure device used for bags, watches and other fashion accessories.
 
Straw: Hand woven willow or rattan or corn husk, used to make summer bags and picnic baskets. They are woven into rigid shapes. More modern straws are soft and cloth-like. Most straw bags are imported.
 
Suede: A treatment applied to the flesh side of a skin to produce a napped, velvet-like finish.
 
Swagger: A roomy, framed bag with two straps or handles, open outside pockets and a zippered or clasped open top.
 
Synthetic Materials: Materials other than genuine leather, but which are designed to look or function like leather; also known as man-made materials.
 
Tassel:  A decorative or useful attachment to a handbag, usually of stringy appearance. Can be used as a zip pull.
 
Top Handle: A handle that is attached to the top of a bag and designed to be carried in your hands. Top handles are often paired with frame bags.
 
Tote: A bag designed as a carryall. A tote is inspired by a shopping bag, which is sturdy and rectangular with an open top and two strap handles. The inside may have zip compartments.
 
Valise:  A largish handbag that closes at the top, has two top carrying handles, and is durably built. A valise often serves as luggage for overnight trips or as a make up case.
 
Wristlet: A clutch with a bracelet-like strap so that the bag can be carried hanging from your wrist.
 
Wrist Strap: A thin looped strap or cord attached to a small handbag or wallet so it can be carried on the wrist.
 
Yoga Mat Bag: A bag especially designed to transport a yoga mat. Style of bag is usually a tote or long cylindrical shoulder bag.
 
Zipper Pull:  A tab that is attached to the zipper so that you can open and close the zipper. Many handbags have decorative zipper pulls. Some zipper pulls are signature to a particular designer.
 
Zipper Top: A handbag, a compartment, or a side pocket, that closes at the top with a zipper.
 
 
 
 
 

Leather Terms:
 
 
 
Aniline Dyed: Refers to color, which permeates the hide totally.
 
Aniline-Plus:  Also called “semi-aniline”. Leathers that have been aniline dyed are then coated with matching pigments to even out the color. This finish does not mask the natural characteristics of the hide.
 
Aniline Finish: A clear finish with little or no pigmentation.
 
Bark or Vegetable Tanned:  Leather which has been tanned with vegetable materials that are derived from certain plants and woods.
 
Buffed: Leather which has been smoothed or sueded by mechanical sanding.
 
Cabretta:  Skin of hair sheep, chiefly Brazilian, used principally for glove and garment leathers.
 
Calfskin Leather: Leather made from the skins of the young cattle and characterized by distinct grain or fiber structure.
 
Chamois Leather:  A soft, pliable absorbent leather made from the inner side of a sheepskin.
 
Cowhide Leather: Leather made from hides of cows. The term is generally loosely used to designate any leather tanned from hides of animals of the bovine species.
 
Crocking: The transfer of finish or color when leather is rubbed with a wet or dry cloth.  Indicative of a poorly dyed leather.
 
Distressed: Buffing surface to create uneven coloration and markings for a weathered look.
 
Doeskin: Commercial term for white leather from sheep or lambskin, tanned with alum or formaldehyde or both.
 
Drum-Dyed: A dying process in which the leather is immersed in a drum and tumbled. This process fully penetrates the leather and produces the most even and long lasting coloration.
 
Embossed Leathers:  By way of a mechanical process of permanently imprinting a variety of unique effects ( ie: snake, alligator, paisleys)  to the leather surface, hides or skins are finished with designs stamped on by etched, engraved, or electrotyped plates or rollers.
 
Finishing: Process of applying materials to the grain of the leather to cover blemishes, create smoothness, and give uniformity of color and appearance which may vary from dull to glossy.
 
Firenze Leather:  A soft cowhide leather that is polished with a slight sheen.
 
Full Grain: Same as top grain. “The best”! This means the leather is unaltered and in its natural state, having the original grain surface of the skin.  See “Top Grain Leather” below.
 
Glazed Finish: Produced by polishing grain surface under heavy pressure of a roller of agate, glass, or steel. Infrequently made by a varnish or shellac coating.
 
Hand: The reaction of the sense of touch when leather is held in the hand.
 
Hand Antique: Leather is antiqued by hand applying a darker color over a lighter base, much as wood is stained to emphasize natural grain.
 
Hot Stuffing:  A process that infuses dyes, waxes, and oils into the surface of the leather under heat and pressure.
 
Imitation Leather: Materials made and finished to resemble leather. Example of imitation leather: leatherette. Can be coated fabrics, rubber, and plastic. 
 
India-Tanned: Term applies to hides and skins from India, considered a semi-tanned raw material and generally re-tanned in the U.S. before finishing.
 
Mineral Tanned:  Tanned with chemical compounds of mineral origin, without the use of vegetable tanning materials. The principal type of mineral tannage is chromium compounds.
 
Naked Leather:  Naked leather has been dyed only. Nothing is applied to it that would mask its natural state. Because of this, it is the softest and most supple leather available. It gives the unique natural grain of leather a distinct warm rich glow.
 
Napa:  Commonly refers to the surface or top grain of any soft leather hide.
 
Nubuck Sueded Grain: This full grain layer of the skin is given a suede effect by lightly sanding the natural grain to open the hair cell and results in a velvety suede feel. Care must be taken against soiling or staining after this process, as it is difficult if not impossible to clean afterward. 
 
Nubuck: Top Grain leather buffed to create a suede effect.
 
Nude Finish: A leather that is usually vat dyed, but has little or no protective coat.
 
Oil-Tanned: Leather tanned with fish oils giving a soft and pliable leather like chamois.
 
Patent Leather:  Leather with glossy, impermeable finish, produced by successive coats of drying oil or varnish.
 
Patina: A surface that has taken on beauty and character derived from age or use.
 
Pebble Grain:  An embossed-leather grain finish resembling a pebbled surface, ranging from fine pebbled Morocco goat to heavy scotch grain upper leather,
 
Perforated: The process of die-cutting small holes to form a pattern in the leather.
 
Pigment Finish:  Leather finished with compounds containing opaque pigments, which more or less conceal the grain pattern.  Split leathers are often finished with pigments and embossed to simulate a grain.
 
Premium Select:  A term describing hides with minimal amount of scars or blemishes, usually less than 5% of all hides.
 
Pure-Aniline:  Buttery, glove-soft leathers which are tumbled for up to 12 hours in drums containing transparent dyes.
 
Sanding: Refers to the removal of grain, scars and blemishes from a hide.
 
Semi-Aniline: A semi-aniline leather has been aniline dyed, then slightly pigmented. Because pigment is solid, this type of leather ensures color consistency while having stain and spill resistance.
 
Snuffed: Portions of the grain surface lightly abraded with emery wheel or sandpaper so as to lessen the effect of grain damage.
 
Suede:  Leather finished by buffing with an emery wheel to produce a napped surface. Suede is not as durable as top grain leather.
 
Tanning: Treating raw hides to reduce perishability.
 
Top Grain:  Also full grain. “the best”!  This is the upper layer of a hide, which is split into layers. This outer (top) layer will show natural scars and hair cell patterns if left as uncorrected natural grain.  The hides can be colored and given various protective finishes.  This is the best, strongest, and most durable layer of the hide.
 
Tumbling: A process in which hides are tumbled in a rotating drum to soften the hand or enhance the grain.
 
Water Repellent Leather: A leather which has been treated with any of several chemical compounds which repel the absorption of external water.
 
Wax Finish:  A method of finishing heavier weights of upper leather on the flesh side by working wax into the substance.
 
 

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